The Environmental Impact of Vegan Leather vs. Conventional Leather

If you’ve ever found yourself eyeing that buttery-soft leather bag and wondering, “Can I do better—for the planet, for the animals, for my values?”—you’re not alone. I haven’t worn leather in over 15 years, ever since I first became a vegetarian, but I did this for ethical reasons. When I first started my sustainability journey, I started to get curious not only about the ethical aspect of wearing leather, but its environmental impact. I used to think real leather was just a byproduct of the meat industry, so I didn’t question it much. It wasn’t until I dug a little deeper that I realized how much more there is to the story. Spoiler alert: conventional leather is far from eco-friendly.

So let’s break it down! I’ll guide you through this controversial topic step by step: the environmental impact of traditional leather, the pros and cons of vegan leather alternatives (yes, even the plasticky ones), and which sustainable leather options are truly worth your conscious coin.

LEATHER IS NOT JUST A BYPRODUCT

There’s a persistent myth that leather is simply a way to use up parts of the cow that would otherwise go to waste. But the truth is a bit more complicated. Leather is a highly profitable co-product, not a waste product. In some cases, leather sales are what make cattle farming viable in the first place. That means when we buy leather, we’re not just using up scraps—we’re actively supporting the meat and dairy industries. Globally, leather accounts for up to 26% of major slaughterhouses’ earnings.

And then there’s the environmental cost. Raising cattle requires massive amounts of land, water, and feed. Forests (especially the Amazon) are cleared for pasture or soy feed crops, leading to deforestation, habitat loss, and greenhouse gas emissions. Methane from cows, manure management, and fertilizer use add even more emissions to the mix. The UN Food and Agriculture Organization reports that cattle ranching is the primary driver of deforestation in the Amazon, responsible for 80% of forest destruction and 340 million tons of carbon emissions annually. 

Once the cow is slaughtered, things don’t get much greener. Leather must be treated to prevent it from decomposing (because, reminder: it’s skin). This process, called tanning, typically uses toxic chemicals like chromium salts, which can leach into water systems and cause serious health problems for workers and local communities. A report supported by the European Commission found that tanning 1kg of leather uses up to 2.5kg of chemical substances and up to 250 liters of water and generates up to 6.1kg of solid waste. Many tanneries are located in countries with lax environmental regulations, leading to severe pollution and human rights issues.

VEGAN LEATHER: BETTER FOR THE ANIMALS–BUT IS IT BETTER FOR THE PLANET?

Enter vegan leather, the animal-free alternative that’s popped up in everything from sneakers to luxury handbags. But like with most things in the sustainable world, it’s not as simple as "vegan = eco-friendly." Not all vegan leathers are created equal.

Let’s start with the most common type: PU (polyurethane) or PVC (polyvinyl chloride) leather. These are plastic-based materials made to mimic the look and feel of leather. Are they better for animals? Absolutely—no animals die in their production. That alone makes them an ethical win in terms of animal welfare. Let’s remember that for the leather industry, the process in regards to cows is similar to the beef industry: cows need to be forcefully impregnated, separated from their calves once they’re born, only to be killed later because they don’t produce milk and are therefore considered “a waste”.

However, plastic-based leather comes with their own baggage. They’re made from fossil fuels, don’t biodegrade, and can release microplastics when they break down. If you’ve ever owned a cheap pleather jacket that started to flake and peel, you know what I’m talking about. These materials can also release toxic compounds during production and when incinerated.

That said, plastic-based vegan leathers still have a lower carbon footprint and use significantly less water and land compared to animal leather. And, crucially, they decouple our consumer choices from industries built on animal exploitation.

The carbon footprint of cow skin leather is found to be 110.0kg of CO2e per square meter. In comparison, artificial leather’s total supply chain has an impact of 15.8kg of CO2e per square meter, making cow skin leather nearly 7 times more climate impactful than synthetic leather by the square meter. Additionally, leather products demand a lot of resources to be completed. For instance, to make 1 typical cow skin leather tote, almost 17,128L of water is used. Moreover, 90% of leather around the world is tanned with chemicals like chromium, as well as formaldehyde and arsenic. Every day, an estimated 40 million litres of untreated waste-water flows through major tanning country India and into the Ganges River, which people drink from and bathe in.

If you're just starting out and buying an affordable, long-lasting PU-based vegan bag that you actually use for years, you're still doing better than opting for animal leather.

IS ‘SUSTAINABLE LEATHER’ A THING?

You might’ve seen the Leather Working Group (LWG) logo on products from brands like Adidas, Zara, H&M, or even Prada—usually paired with words like “sustainable” or “ethical.” But what does that label actually mean?

To be fair, LWG does address some important stuff. It looks at things like how tanneries manage chemicals (chromium is a big one), how they treat wastewater, and whether they can trace where the leather comes from. That’s definitely a step forward compared to no standards at all.

But here's the catch: the certification only applies to tanneries—not the farms where the cows are raised or the workers who handle the materials. And unfortunately, some LWG-certified leather has been linked to deforestation in the Amazon. Plus, there’s no requirement for checking on worker conditions or animal welfare. So while LWG may reduce some environmental impact, it’s not the full picture many of us hope for when we see the word “sustainable.”

What about leather that comes from regenerative agriculture? You may have heard that it’s possible to raise animals in a way that helps store carbon in the soil through techniques like rotational grazing. Some say this could be a climate-friendly solution that even benefits the land. Sounds promising, right?

Here’s where it gets complicated. A major report from the University of Oxford—called Grazed and Confused—looked into these claims. The researchers found that even well-managed animal agriculture tends to have a bigger environmental footprint than plant-based systems. In other words, while regenerative grazing might be better than conventional farming, it’s still not low-impact.

So… is sustainable leather a myth? Not entirely. But it’s a term that’s often used in ways that gloss over complex realities. As with many things in the sustainability world, it’s worth asking: “Sustainable for who? And compared to what?”

The deeper we dig, the clearer it becomes that conscious consumption means staying curious—and not taking labels at face value.

THE RISE OF SUSTAINABLE VEGAN LEATHER ALTERNATIVES

The good news: the world of vegan leather is evolving fast—and the newer, more sustainable alternatives are seriously exciting.

Here are a few of the most promising options:

1.      Pineapple Leather (Piñatex)

Made from the fibers of pineapple leaves (a waste product of the fruit industry), Piñatex is biodegradable and doesn’t require extra land or water to grow. It’s not 100% plastic-free—there’s a resin coating—but it’s a huge step forward.

2.      Mushroom Leather (Mycelium)

Yes, mushrooms! Mycelium leather is made from the root structure of fungi and can be grown in controlled environments using agricultural waste. It’s soft, durable, and biodegradable. Brands like Mylo™ are already partnering with fashion giants like Stella McCartney.

3.      Apple Leather

Made from leftover apple skins and cores from the juicing industry, apple leather is another fruit-based option that’s partially biodegradable and far more sustainable than traditional or plastic-based leathers.

4.  Cactus Leather (Desserto)

This Mexican innovation uses nopal cactus (aka prickly pear) to create a durable, partially biodegradable leather alternative. It grows with very little water and doesn’t need herbicides or pesticides.

5. Grape Leather (Vegea)

Made from wine industry leftovers (yes, wine), grape leather turns skins, stalks, and seeds into beautiful material with minimal environmental impact. Cheers to that!

6.     Cork Leather

Cork Leather is harvested from cork oak trees without cutting them down—cool, right? It’s renewable, biodegradable, naturally water-resistant, and best used for structured items like bags and wallets.
 

7.    Mirum & Other High-Tech Blends

Vegan leathers made from materials like coconut, rubber, natural fibers—zero plastic! Although they are fully biodegradable and a great sustainable leather alternative, they are still rare. But watch out—it’s the rookie with real potential!

Most of these bio-based leathers still include a small amount of synthetic binders or coatings to make them more durable—but the overall environmental impact is significantly lower than animal leather or traditional plastic-based faux leather.

Making the Most Sustainable Choice Between Vegan Leather and Conventional Leather

So what’s a conscious consumer to do?

First, let’s get one thing straight: there’s no perfect material. Every product has an impact. Unless you reduce your consumption habits to zero, you’re going to be choosing a material, which comes with an environmental cost. The best alternative is always to think before buying, or purchasing secondhand items. The next step is to take care of the things you already have and reuse them for years to come. But when it comes to buying something new, what matters is transparency, intention, and longevity.

Here’s what I look for when I’m buying leather alternatives:

• Material source: Is it plant-based, a byproduct, or waste-derived?

• Durability: Will it last? Can it handle daily wear?

• Certifications or transparency: Does the brand share details about their supply chain or sustainability practices?

• End-of-life considerations: Is it biodegradable, recyclable, or destined for a landfill?

And, of course, buy less, choose well, make it last. The most sustainable bag or jacket is the one you use for years—not the one that sits in your closet collecting dust.

Conventional leather is no longer the “natural” or sustainable material it’s often made out to be. Its deep ties to deforestation, chemical pollution, animal suffering, and greenhouse gas emissions make it one of the most environmentally harmful materials in the fashion industry.

Vegan leather—especially the newer plant-based options—offers a path forward that’s not just better for animals, but better for the planet too. While plastic-based vegan leathers aren't perfect, they still represent a step away from animal exploitation and intensive agriculture. And for many of us just starting out on our sustainability journey, that’s already a win.

So next time you’re shopping for a new bag, pair of boots, or wallet, think of it as casting a vote—not just for your personal style, but for the kind of world you want to live in. Let’s start making informed choices about our fashion—because every small change can lead to a bigger impact.

If you’d like to embark on this journey with me and read my future posts, please don’t forget to subscribe to my newsletter!

Hi, I’m Melina,

I’m the creator of Sustainable Rookie, and my goal is to share what I learn throughout my sustainability journey, so that I can help other people live a more conscious life.

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